For receptacles we always cut in right alongside a stud. If you are going to use this box, you have to pull it out from the wall and anchor it to the sheet rock or brick using the proper anchor. One end of the pin is round and the other has a flat tab with a hole for a screw. The second coat is applied and, after it dries, a third. The short sides of the box have round indents where a mounting pin is inserted. One coat of plaster is applied and allowed to dry, scratched to create texture, and left to dry. 1) If nail-on boxes are set too low, use plastic spacers to build up the level of the receptacle or switch so its mounting tab is flush to the drywall. Lath is basically thin slats that give the plaster something to grip to. But a nail-on box below a drywall or a plaster wall calls for a different solution: plastic spacers 1. Section One: Install the Junction Box and Cut the Drywall. Today, metal or plasterboard lath is secured to the studs. 1: Determine the location of the Veil on the ceiling or wall. ![]() Ive been using those for years on plaster lath, they work great for switches. The plastering process has changed slightly over its history. Two little drywall screw heads are simple to patch/fill. But the depth you create will obviously depend on the depth of the battens plus the plasterboard thickness. Just screw the backing into place thru the plaster/lathe. ![]() If you use battens on the wall instead of adhesive it just means you can screw the plasterboard on to the battens instead of using adhesive. That will increase the depth to around 37mm. Most of the boxes are already nailed to the walls at the 3/8s' mark. We are doing 1/2' drywall on the walls for sure (except on firewall of course). If the circuit wires prove to be too short for the extended depth created by the extender, you can attach pigtail. Most plastic home improvement store electrical, single gang cut-in boxes seem to have little plastic tabs / bumps which if used, will set the box 3/8s inch off the studs. Usually, you can slide the extender over the switch or receptacle without disconnecting the circuit wires. If you use insulated plaster board, like 25mm thick, you still need to use adhesive to glue it on to the bare wall. Slip the box extender over the device and slide it into the electrical box. You fix the boxes and wiring before you put the plasterboard on the wall. So the gap being 12.5mm plus the plasterboard being 12.5mm leaves a nice 25mm deep recess.If you intend on using deeper back boxes such as 35mm or 47mm then chase out extra depth in the wall where you intend fixing the box and leave it 25mm proud. ![]() Its usual to fix 25mm deep back boxes directly to the bare brick/block and then 'glue' the plasterboard in position around them having cut a rectangle out of the plasterboard to leave it flush with the plasterboard surface. Research conducted by the National Gypsum found that an almost 1 thick lath and plaster wall has a Sound Transmission Class (STC) rating of 52, while 1/2 drywall on 2×4 wood studs has a rating of only 34. If you use what is known in the trade as 'dot-and-dab' plaster boarding you automatically create a 12.5mm gap behind the plasterboard with the plasterboard adhesive (dots and dabs). Soundproof: Plaster has a high density, making it more soundproof than drywall.
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